concrete_island

acne.

four guys.

christopher kane expands his capsule collection to guys. snatch 'um up at dover street market.

sub_Cultures_HARAJUKU.

Harajuku Kids_ Common name for the area around Harajuku Station in Japan. On a sunday, various groups of subcultures meet and socialize, many of the youths not conforming to one particular style. Harajuku has played a large part in many designers work for its influential fashion. The Harajuku Girl look could be described as a neon-cyber-goth, mixing bright colours with metallic shades. A group within this subculture are the cosplays, who dress up to imitate anime or other film characters.
Fashion_ fairytale, childlike, animated, cartoon -like, bright, eccentric, eclectic. 
Music_ I feel that Harajuku fashion has been brought more into light with the 2005 release of Gwen Stefanis album. Her dancers were known as the Harajuki girls which resulted "Harajuku Lovers" clothing and perfume under this idea. 

sub_Cultures_B-BOYS.

B-Boys_ This is one of the only subcultures I am yet to research that has been influenced by dance. The term "B-Boy" refers to the act of breakdancing, and evolved from the hip-hop culture of the 70s. This is not a gender specific sub-cultures as girls known to take part were classed as "b-girls".
Fashion_ sportswear, caps, trainers
Music_ Hip Hop

alexander_wang + abbey_lee.

perfection.

sub_Cultures_INDIE.

Indie_ The sub culture of "Indie Kids" originates from the music genre of "indie(independent)" which began in the US and UK in around the 1980's. The term indie can be applied to film also, often to those that have not been produced on a major label or with a company. This transcended over into fashion mainly through the clothes the bands associated with the scene were wearing, and the types of scenes they were playing, festivals for example. Fashion_ Skinny Jeans, Urban outfitters, Topshop, American Apparrell, Vintage, Trilbys Music_ Kings of Leon, Arcade Fire, Arctic Monkeys, The Kooks

Sub_Cultures_SKINHEADS.

Skinheads_  Skinheads were originally influenced by Mods and Rude boys in terms of their lifestyles and interests. Although skinheads were about morals and lifestyle, fashion soon became a major influence. Skinheads could be distinguished by their short haircuts and style. The skinhead style has been brought to light again with the recent TV adaptation of the film "This Is England".
Fashion_ Fred Perry, Dc Marten, turn up jeans
Music_ Ska, Punk.

Sub_Cultures_NEW RAVE.

New Rave_ The New Rave sub culture stemmed from popular music between 2005 and 2008. This fast electro music contains elements of indie rock music, bringing several sub cultures together. This music was massively supported by NME magazine and many teenagers at the time. 

Fashion_ skinny jeans, hoodies, checked shirts, flat peak caps.

Music_ Klaxons, New Young Pony Club, Test-icles. 

Sub_Cultures_RAVERS.

Raver_ A raver is someone who often attends raves, a party involving electro/drum'n'bass music and often continues through till the morning. The rave culture became more popular in the early 90's with the outbreak of ecstasy as a recreational drug. More recently ravers have been associated with illegal warehouse raves and drugs such as MDMA and M-Kat.
Fashion_ Neon clothes, cropped tees, facepaints.
Music_ Happy Hardcore, 

Sub_Cultures_CHAV.

Chav_ Often described as a group of teenage delinquents who hang around in gangs to cause trouble. This term can be applied to girls or boys. This is not a new sub culture however the label that has been added to it has only become renown in recent years. Also more recently the term "chav" can also be applied to a style of dressing, rather than a lifestyle choice.
Fashion_ tracksuits, caps, hoodies, Burberry print, juicy couture, trainers, velour.
Music_ r'n'b, rap, grime, dupstep, drum'n'bass. 
Stereotyping Chavs has often been used in comedy.

Sub_Cultures_SLOANES.

Sloanes_ A "Sloaner" is someone often associated with wealthier parts of london e.g. (Sloane Square, Kings Road) who is young and upper or middle class. The younger generation of Sloanes have more recently been associated with brand such as Jack Wills, Abercrombie and Fitch and Barbour which are more affordable that brand situated in Sloane square but still have an air of "preppiness" about them.
 Fashion_ Jack Wills, Barbour, designer labels

Sub_Cultures_CLUB KIDS.

Club Kids_ A group of eccentric New York City club personalities around in the late 80's and early 90's.  Known for the two main leaders, Michael Alig and James St James who were notorious for their heavy drug use and partying ways. Michael Alig later ended up in prison over the murder of this ex boyfriend/drug dealer.
Fashion_ over the top, risque, outrageous, neon, loud, spandex, pvc.

Sub_Cultures_NEW WAVE+ NO WAVE.

New Wave_ A backlash against the Punk movement in the 70's, New Wave music was a lot more electronic and synthesized. The music was less about attitudes and making a point, more about the technological sounds. Very similar bands to that that influenced New Romanticism.
Music_ Echno and the Bunnymen, Depeche Mode, Human League, Tears for Fears. 
Fashion_ Over the top, bright, eccentic
No Wave_ A short lived subculture influenced by underground performance art, music and film. The scene rejected the commercialized New Wave.

Music_ 8-eyed spy, the lounge lizzards, Teenage Jesus and the Jerks.

Sub_Cultures_DISCO TRANNIES.

Disco Trannies_ A subculture stemming from new- romanticism and club kids. Transvestites known for being socialites on the gay scene, often defined by a particular club. "Celebrities" such as Jodie Harsh and Tasty Tim could be considered disco trannies.

Sub_Cultures_HIPPY.

Hippy_ The Hippy subculture began as a youth movement in the mid 1960s in America. Hippies embraced sexual revolution (free love), recreational drug use and anti-war beliefs. This movement had a large effect on the media in terms of music and fashion. There has also been a Hippy fashion revival in a boho-esque fashion from Roberto Cavalli's S/S 11 collection.
Music_ The Doors, Jimi Hendrix, The Zombies
Fashion_ Tie Dye, prints, earth materials. 

Sub_Cultures_GRUNGE.

Grunge_ This subculture emerged in the early 90's with the rise in popularity of Seattle Sound.
This subculture based themselves on an anti-fashion trend, layering up and not caring about ripped or tarnished clothing.  It was not only popular in Seattle but also in the UK. Photographer Corrine Day was said to have promoted the "Heroin Chic" look when photographing a young disheveled Kate Moss. This trend has seen a recent revival in terms of its fashion aspect with fashion designers such as rag & bone and philip lim embracing a new grunge style.
Music_ Nirvana, Hole, The Smashing Pumpkins
Fashion_ Plaid, denim, hoodys, "kinderwhores", floral.

Sub_Cultures_METAL HEAD.

Metal Head_ Like many other subcultures, Metal Heads are heavily influenced by music, heavy metal especially. Recreational activities include going to gigs as a method of signifying their dedication.
Music_ Trivium, Metallica, Lamb of God.
Fashion_ Band tshirts, grown out hair/beards, jeans. 

Sub_Cultures_GOTH+NEOGOTH.

Goth_ The Goth subculture is an offspring from the late 1980's punk era and remains one of the longest running subcultures to date. The goth subculture is heavily influenced by aesthetics, wearing dark make-up 24/7 and many black clothes. There is also an air of 19th century romanticism, enforced by films such as Sleepy Hollow and Dracula. This subculture almost blurs the lines between folktale (e.g.c
vampires) and reality.
Music_ The Cure, Southern Death Cult, Suicide Silence, Lamb of God.
Fashion_Black, coloured hair, black make up, piercings and tattoos.

Neo-Goth_ A sophisticated "grown-up goth" look, adopted by fashion designers and stylist as an edgy fashion look. Black is still a heavy influence in terms of colouring, and layering and texture is also essential.
Fashion_ Leather, chains, industrial, black.

Sub_Cultures_ROCKER.

Rockers_The enemy of the Mod, nicknamed "Greasers" by them. This subculture centered around motorcycles and rock'n'roll music. Opposite to the Mods, they were strongly against drug use and dressed a lot more casual also.
Fashion_Leather jackets, Levi's, heavy boots, creepers, dc martens.

Sub_Cultures_SOULBOY.

SouldBoy_ A largely working-class subculture formed in the North of England in the 70's that was ignored due to other "superior" subcultures emerging at the time. Recent film Soulboy(2010) has thrown the forgotten subculture into the limelight.

Sub_Cultures_MOD.

MOD_The Mod sub culture first surfaced in London in the late 1950's, influenced by Fashion and Lifestyle. Rivals of the Rockers, Mods (modernists) were often seen in gangs (mainly guys) whose recreational activities included drug use, riding vespas and clubbing; the "original ravers".
Music_The Who, The Jam, The Kinks.
Fashion_Carnaby Street, Mary Quant, miniskirt, Twiggy, mod crop, tailoring.

Sub_Cultures_PUNK.

Punk_American and British Punk Movement started in the 70's, heavily influenced by music and the government, often due to youths growing impatient with the government. Punks will often not stereotype themselves, although tend to hang round with others who have similar beliefs/interests as them. Punk has been said to be a creative way of rebelling, the music is all about the lyrics and attitude.
Music_Sex Pistols, Misfits, The Slits.
Fashion_Vivienne Westwood, tartan, mohawks, piercing.
Modern Punk_ Modern "Punks" are a lot more understated I feel. Music and the government is still the main drive behind their sub-culture, not so much the fashion aspects of it. Bands such as Trash Talk, Paint it Black, and Propagandhi could be considered modern punk music as their songs protest heavily against real issues e.g. religion, the government and animal rights.

fashion_blows.

snaps

reflection.

After last weeks disastrous critique on our shop sentences, which was completely fair as we stayed way to within the lines, I've decided to get my act together and really push across my ideas about certain pieces we discuss in lectures.                                        

In terms with what I said about Topshop, I feel this was the only point that I put across well. The slogan "Not So Unqiue" is a play on words, as Topshop have a Unique collection which shows at LFW and is highly regarded in the fashion world. The statement expresses my feelings for Topshop well, as I fell that when it comes to a point that someones has a stores "Look", that it might be getting slightly old. I'm also recently finding it hard to distinguish between Topshop and certain other high street stores e.g. H+M, Miss Selfridge etc etc. I think they are heavily relying on what is working/has been working for them instead of expanding and becoming "unique".

It terms of Acne's statement, I messed up. I played it safe and stuck with the first 3 words that came into my head, disregarding everything we'd done the past few weeks in uni seminars. Admittedly, I am a fan of Acne, and this should have perhaps inspired me to come up with something far less bland.  We established in class that Acne have a casual, cool style for young up-and coming creatives living in a city. My final statement for Acne would now read.. 

"Simply Unaffordable to the Casual Creatives"

keeping warm in Carnaby Street.

aggy_.

categories_.

After revisiting several of the shops listed and websites that belong to them, categories are beginning to emerge in terms of similar customers and perhaps even ethics.
In this post I am going to compare Acne and Dover Street Market. In terms of similarities, they have both embraced the visual merchandising technique of involving art heavily into their aesthetics. Dover Street Market is renown for it's heavy use of artwork as a part of their visual merchandising e.g. the birdcage changing room on the third floor. I feel this "quirky" technique has been adopted by stores such as Acne as an attempt to keep up with their unique shopping experience. On the second floor in Acne, in display by the main window is a carved wooden animal, thus drawing attention from outside passers by.
The difference between the two shops I feel is their layout. Acne is very simply laid out with a lot of space between rails allowing easy browsing. On the other hand, Dover Street Market has quite an eclectic feel to it considering just how expensive some of the garments they are selling are.

winter_wonders.

winter_wonders. by kerrydf featuring a unisex tee

heavy leathers and sheer delights.

real world_vs_the virtual.

In todays seminar we discussed the difference between the marketing style of a shops display and the style of their website. A store that particularly stood out was Urban Outfitters. Their store has been       
described as "eclectic, creative and busy". This shows a vast difference to the style of their website which is simple and sleek. I feel this may be because of the different audience's they are trying to capture. Inside their store,           especially the Oxford Street branch, the shops have become almost a cult tourist spot as they are few and far between throughout the rest of the UK. This results in packed and stuffy shopping experiences, often due to excitable youngsters around the ages of 15-16. 

The website however, comes across a lot more professional and simple. The clean layout allows for simple and fast browsing, which is the type of experience many online shoppers desire. The basic listed items on the left are a far cry form the "jumble-sale" feel that can often be found whilst shopping in store. 

The same can also be said for Acne. I find the display inside their shop classic and smart. They have a few pieces of art on each floor but overall the interior of the shop is structural and dynamic. This, once again, is very different to the home page of their global website. Pastel colour schemes and soft designs on the homepage to me are very different from the typical Acne branch.
This begins to make us question whether the customers in-store are the same as those who shop online? With such different consumer experiences between virtual and in-store shopping, the marketing department of these two sources must be catering for a different audience. Who those audiences are I am yet to find out.. 

screen_printing.

snapping part_2.

Topshop Oxford Street. Chaotic, vibrant, renown.

15.11.2010

fashion shop map.

snapping.

First stop: Dover Street.

My research began in Dover Street after a visiting lecture from DSM's Alex Hidalgo, who coincidentally was inside when we visited and recognised Lucia and I from the talk. I decided the best way to keep track of my first tho

ughts of a place was using a simple form to fill out.

I used the same technique for Acne, which is also situated on Dover Street.

The sale assistant in Acne gave us some info on their bestsellers and newest produce. You can tell by the interior design of the shop that they've really taken on board the DSM s

tyle in terms of displaying art and sculpture.

(Below right, Acne bestseller "Rider Low Cowboy Ankle Boot" £335.)